Natural Park of the Levante Peninsula

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Description

The Natural Park of the Llevant Peninsula, with an area of ​​1,671 ha, covers a large area of ​​the Artà mountains, and includes the highest peaks of the Sierra de Llevant.
(Puig Morei, 564 m; Puig des Porrassar, 491 m; Puig de sa Tudossa, 441 m).

The nature reserves of Cap de Ferrutx and Cap des Freu, in the terms of Artà and Capdepera, comprise two areas of coastal cliffs at the northern end of the Levante peninsula.

How to get there?

The Natural Park is located in the northeast of the island of Mallorca, on the Llevant peninsula, in the municipality of Artà.
The Park can be reached from the Artà road in the direction of the hermitage of Bethlehem (MA 3333) and turn right at kilometer 4.7.

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Social Media & Govern website

You can find more information on the website and contact the Natural Area Administration on social media:

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Public estates

The public estates owned by the Ministry of Environment and Mobility have been acquired with the sole intention of managing them in order to preserve and restore their natural, landscape and cultural values, including those of an ethnological, heritage and agricultural nature, at the same time to make them available to all those who seek direct contact with nature, as long as this is compatible with this conservation.

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Public Estates

Public estates of Albarca and Es Verger

The estates of Albarca and es Verger were acquired by the Government of the Balearic Islands in 1999. Since ancient times they have been part of the same property and have always been closely linked to each other. The Albarca estate has always had an agricultural character, with cereal and olive groves; while in the des Verger the mountainous areas predominate that have been used traditionally like pastures for the ovine and equine cattle. The houses on the Albarca estate are the houses of the lords, known as the s’Alzina refuge and the farmers ’house. The surroundings of the houses of Albarca show an intensive human use (eras, silage rolls, lime kilns, margins and a refinery). Already within the limits of Es Verger, in the coastal area, we find two more constructions: the old summer house of the lords of Albarca known as the refuge of s’Arenalet and a house for livestock reconverted into the refuge of O Oguers . Of the two estates, Es Verger stands out for its naturalistic values, as this estate includes the entire coastal area of ​​the Llevant Peninsula Natural Park (from s’Arenalet des Verger to Cala na Picarandau), the highest peaks. of the Sierra de Llevant, abundant caves and chasms, numerous rupicolous plant endemisms, as well as the main nesting areas of birds of prey in the Natural Park. Area : 1,127.9 hectares. Location : It is located in the north of the municipality of Artà in the Natural Park of the Llevant Peninsula. How to get there : You can get there from the Artà road in the direction of the Bethlehem hermitage (Ma-3333) and turn right at kilometer 4.7. Coordinates: 39.767117,3.35701

Public property of s’Alqueria Vella

Public property of s’Alqueria Vella In 2000 the Government of the Balearic Islands acquired the lands of s’Alqueria Vella. S’Alqueria Vella stands out for the intense human use of which it has been the object since antiquity, such as: • two important sites of Talayotic origin • two sets of farmhouses that include, among other elements, a refinery, sestadors, corrals, two eras of beating. • crop fields, pasture areas, wooded areas and scrubland • a military detention camp originating from the Spanish Civil War. • other military constructions that arose as a result of the forced labor of Republican prisoners in the early 1940s to drive the emergence of a new population center. Walking through this farm we can see the majestic flight of sparrowhawks and falcons, but we can also find herds of Mallorcan sheep and cows grazing there. Area : 373.7 hectares. Location : It is located in the north of the municipality of Artà in the Natural Park of the Llevant Peninsula. How to get there : You can get there from the Artà road in the direction of the Bethlehem hermitage (Ma-3333) and turn right at kilometer 4.7. Coordinates: 39.767117,3.35701

Announcements

Les persones que no puguin accedir al medi natural, per qualsevol dificultat física o psíquica, poden sol·licitar fer un itinerari amb cadira Joëlette. Per més informació podeu consultar el fulletó en www.caib.es

Per elegir entre la nostra oferta d’itineraris es poden posar en contacte amb la informadora del Parc, qui els suggerirà vàries opcions.
(Telèfon de contacte del Parc: 606 096 830)
Per concertar la visita es poden posar en contacte amb els voluntaris de Creu Roja, amb un mínim de tres setmanes d’antelació.
(Telèfon d’atenció al públic de la Creu Roja de 24 hores: 971 29 50 00)

La visita s’acordarà sempre que hi hagi voluntaris (o voluntàries) disponibles.
El préstec de la cadira és completament gratuït.
El projecte està finançat íntegrament per l’Obra Social “la Caixa”.

What to do?

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Agenda

Itineraries

Permitted activities and characteristics

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Regulations

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General Rules of the PNA

You are in a protected natural space, which is fragile and has great natural and cultural values. There are some basic rules you must follow:

  • Motor vehicles must remain in the car park, the only space allowed for this purpose. Only those who are authorized can access the paths of the Park.
  • Do not leave roads and routes expressly marked for public use. Information that may appear in publications outside the Park may
  • Make sure you bring the necessary equipment for your excursion. The Natural Park is large and steep and in many areas there is no mobile signal.
  • Leave the hatches as you find them. If one is closed, leave it like this again.
  • Respect plants and animals. It is not allowed to pick flowers or snatch plants. Animals of any kind cannot be collected. Avoid shouting and noise.
  • It is forbidden to make snails of stones, landmarks or similar.
  • Pets are not allowed. Only guide dogs are excluded.
  • Group or lucrative sports activities, horses and drones require authorization. Adventure sports are not allowed.
  • Bicycles may only travel on express roads. Respect the speed limit and be considerate of other visitors.
  • No fire is allowed (except inside shelters).
  • Take away any waste you may have. There are no bins or manure collection service.

Enjoy the PNAs

The Maritime-Terrestrial National Park of the Cabrera Archipelago is composed of a set of islands and islets located southeast of Mallorca, which due to its special geographical, geological, and natural conditions, has undergone throughout history a diversity of situations that have shaped a space of special appeal for all types of visitors. The visitor to Cabrera Gran, the only accessible island, will encounter a stunning landscape of coves and corners practically untouched by human presence over the centuries. At the same time, they will come across a long history filled with very curious episodes that will pique their interest: from the presence of a monastery from the 5th century, to stories of pirates or the surprising history of soldiers from the Napoleonic army imprisoned on the island.

Furthermore, the presence of endemisms like the balearic lizards or the rotgeta, a vibrant and marvelously adapted nature, leaves no one indifferent. Walking alongside specialized guides and visiting places of indescribable natural beauty, while discovering the importance and value of this unique and authentic world, is a one-of-a-kind experience.

Cabrera is a vast laboratory spanning 90,000 hectares, of which over 98% belong to the marine environment, and it enjoys maximum protection. Scientists from all specialties work and contribute scientific knowledge from this particularly well-preserved corner of the world.

Coming to Cabrera means enjoying a distinctive landscape, a very well-preserved natural space, and a surprising history.

Agenda

Upcoming events:

Itineraries

Below you can consult the itineraries available for this Protected Natural Area.

References

To see the color references on the map, open the drop-down (left).

From s’Alqueria Vella to es Verger

From Verger to Albarca

Way of the Prisoners

Camí de s’Esquena Llargas

Camí d’en Mondoi

Camí dels Horts Vells d’Albarca

The source of Penya Roja

Campament des Soldats – Es Verger

Volta als Establits de s’Alqueria Vella

Pujada al puig Figuer

Pujada al puig des Porrassar

Puig de sa Talaia Freda

Available Itineraires
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From s’Alqueria Vella to es Verger

Difficulty: Low
Duration: 35 min
Description: The itinerary begins at the houses of s’Alqueria Vella de Baix, located at the main entrance of the Natural Park. The landscape that will accompany us to the houses of Es Verger is very marked by a human activity, agriculture, which has been the basis of the subsistence of pre-tourist society in this land.
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Stages

The past of s’Alqueria Vella
The houses of s’Alqueria Vella de Baix are located in the center of a valley at an altitude of about 230 meters, surrounded by the slopes of the Freda watchtower to the west, des Porrassar and the Puig des Corb to the north, and the hills from Castellot, Genet and Figuer to the east and south. The place name Alqueria, from the Arabic al-qarya or al-qariya, takes us back to the Muslim past of Mallorca, when Artà, Capdepera and Son Servera belonged to the Yartân district. Agriculture occupied most of the population. Reguiu was highly developed, thanks to the extraordinary mastery of hydraulics by the Arabs. There are examples of this heritage throughout the estate: waterwheels, wells, cisterns, terraces, canals and ditches. They grew cereals, but also vegetables and fodder. With the Catalan conquest in 1229, the lands were immediately divided between King James I and the members of the high aristocracy, and repopulated with new settlers, mostly Catalans. The introduction of the feudal system of land tenure led to a profound reconversion of crops. The more specialized crops of the previous period (rice, cotton, vegetables) were replaced by the Mediterranean trilogy (wheat, vine and olive), which acquired a predominant role. Until the end of the 19th century, the rural world revolved around possession, the quintessential productive unit. The owners leased them to the owners, who directed their production and organized the work of the day laborers, messengers and roters. We will follow the path that leads to Es Verger, going around a few drywall fences, and leaving a laundry and a ferris wheel on the left.

Can Totdéu, rainfed crops

As the slope increases, on the slopes of this plain, the dominant vegetation is the scrubland. In this area and, decanted from the places of passage, there are some artificial drinking troughs built to ensure the survival of the fauna, especially the population of Mediterranean turtle (Testudo hermanni). Near the houses of s’Alqueria Vella de Baix we find those of Can Ros, surrounded by olive groves on the slopes. In s’Alqueria Vella there are about 500 olive trees, to which must be added the 700 in Albarca and es Verger. The farms are operated according to the criteria of the Balearic Council of Organic Agricultural Production. The crops in these lands are always rainfed trees resistant to lack of rain: almond trees, carob trees and some fig trees. Shortly afterwards, we arrive at the plain of Can Totdéu, where the presence of these trees is combined with the annual cultivation of fodder for the herd. Oil production played an important role, as it allowed the export of surpluses. Day laborers were hired to harvest the olives in the fall. These tasks involved women, who acted as harvesters, and children. The farms of s’Alqueria Vella and Albarca are still on the estates. A small number of landowners owned most of the land until, at the end of the 19th century, some large estates were segregated into small plots of one or two quarters and allowed the consolidation of a large group of smallholders. . Some large noble properties passed into the hands of the local landlords, as was the case of Albarca and Es Verger. With the crisis of traditional crops in the late 19th century, the olive grove and cereals alternated with legumes were replaced by almond, vine, fig and carob trees. Today, agricultural activities occupy only 2% of the active population of the Balearic Islands, but at the beginning of the 19th century, between 80 and 90% of the population of the Llevant region worked there. To the left of the road, a small stone hut, Can Valent, reminds us of the living conditions of the peasants of that time. What used to be a shelter for sheep was once inhabited by a family. Further up, we find the houses of Can Totdéu, where there is evidence that the conradors were there until 1906. The only amenities they had were a corner to make a fire and a bed of straw. A few meters away we find an era where wheat was threshed and with the help of the wind the grain was separated from the straw. In this place, very close to the houses of Can Totdéu, the Coll des Verger separates the estates of s’Alqueria Vella and es Verger. From there we will enjoy an impressive view of the valley and, if the day is clear enough, also of the island of Menorca.

El coll des Verger
At the bottom of the valley we will see cultivated areas, which contrast with the reed-covered slopes (Ampelodesmos mauritanica) that climb to the top of the mountains that form Ses Murades, the rocks that surround the valley. The cart covers large areas of the Natural Park and gives color to the landscape: golden all summer and bright green from October. In addition to the reedbird, there is a great variety of plants, very abundant such as the bush (Pistacia lentiscus) or the oak (Chamaerops humilis), the only native palm tree in the Balearic Islands; and less abundant ones such as the sea onion (Urginea maritima), easy to recognize by its large leaves and the spike of white flowers that open in the middle of summer. Among the plants, a large group of endemic species stands out, such as the blue or borda turnip (Arum pictum), typical of the Balearic Islands, Corsica and Sardinia, the woodpecker (Aetheorhiza bulbosa) and the saffron bord (Crocus cambessedesii). Despite the good number of species we find, the abundance of reeds is remarkable. The explanation, like so many other times, has a lot to do with us humans. Extensive sheep farming has long been practiced on mountain farms. The sheep appreciate the reed, which once harvested or burned sprouts again, offering more tender and edible shoots. For this reason, for a long time, shepherds have used fire to obtain new pastures for the flock. This method, however, has had negative effects on the composition of vegetation and has marked the appearance of these mountains. After the passage of the fire, the sprouting plants (and especially the reed) are very favored in front of the rest. If we take into account that in the years 1992-2002 more than 4,000 ha of garrigues and forests were burned in the East of Mallorca, we will understand that the repetition of the fires has impoverished the mountains, which have lost most of the tree cover, accelerating the soil erosion. In the Park, the herd is used to reduce the density of the cart, thus reducing combustibility and, therefore, the risk of fire.

The Orchard Houses
At present, the houses of Es Verger are in a poor state of preservation, but other generations knew them very differently. Archduke Lluís Salvador describes it as “a new and modest house with a rectangular portal, from which the sea dominates at the foot to the coasts of Menorca”. The estate of Es Verger has always been associated with Albarca because the owners of both have generally been the same people. The houses were inhabited until the 1980s and all kinds of vegetables could be found in the orchards. The orchards receive water from the Es Verger spring. Along the way there is a spring of water with a curious inscription: “Old seasonal tusk, permanent source since 19 … Year 1958”. The houses of Es Verger have a structure quite different from those of s’Alqueria Vella de Baix, if we refer to the interior dependencies. But what stands out is the difference between the farms from the point of view of exploitation: in es Verger the development of horticultural production and pig farming (we can still see the solls) were greater, while s’Alqueria Vella he devoted himself more to the production of oil and sheep. In the basins and ditches of Es Verger we can find plants from aquatic environments such as mosses and algae. Among the fauna we find a great diversity of invertebrates, such as dragonflies, and vertebrates such as the frog (Pelophylax perezi) and the water snake (Natrix maura). If we are interested in another comparison, we are now an hour’s walk from the houses of Albarca, different, too, from the rest. If we consider that it is time to return, we can undo the path, going up the pass again and then descending towards s’Alqueria Vella. A nice place to have a snack before the way back could be above the era or on the Coll des Verger itself, with a view of the sea in the background. Another option to return to s’Alqueria Vella is to take the path that comes out of the side of the fountain: in just 15 minutes of ascent it will allow us to reach a pass in the shadow of Puig des Corb, from where we will get a wonderful panoramic view of the whole valley of Es Verger. In just 10 more minutes, we will be able to reach the Campament des Soldats, and from there we will be able to follow the signposted path that will take us back to the s’Alqueria Vella car park.

From Verger to Albarca

Difficulty: Low
Distance: 3 km
Duration: 50 min
Description: The route connects the houses of Es Verger with those of Albarca, crossing the valley of Es Verger and the olive groves of Ses Monjoies. The route begins at the height of the houses of Es Verger, once past the barrier that gives access to this property, located in the Coll des Verger (304 m).
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Stages

The estate of Es Verger and the houses
The original houses of Es Verger were built in the s. XIV. It consists of a two-storey building with attached outbuildings for agricultural and livestock use. The roof retains the traditional structure with wooden beams and reeds, although the state of conservation of the whole is poor. The carriage porch has an arched door and a roof with a sandstone barrel vault. The existence of water in this area made it possible to take advantage of the margins to develop a horticultural area. There are still some fruit trees (figs and almonds), and laurels. The current guests of the houses of Es Verger are some bats, which feed on moths, beetles and other flying insects, and the owls (Tyto alba), nocturnal birds of prey that feed on insects and rodents. Parallel to the road we can see a firewall opened by the brigades that carry out forest fire prevention tasks; the grazing of the herds complements these actions.

Water and stone
The Es Verger spring and the water collected in this basin are the source of the Es Niu des Pilot torrent, which runs through the valley, until it joins the Es Matzoc torrent. On the way down, in the direction of Albarca, we advance next to a ditch for the distribution of water between the crops of the terraces. From here we enjoy a panoramic view of the terraces, which allow us to make the most of the land for agricultural uses, slow down erosive processes and contribute to the regulation of the hydraulic regime. The construction of banks, walls, fountains and canals involves the creation of habitats that colonize species such as invertebrates, which find within the stone walls an environment with stable conditions, protected from predators. Among the vertebrates that seek food and shelter in the holes, we find reptiles such as the dragon (Tarentola mauretanica) and mammals such as the stubborn mouse (Apodemus sylvaticus) and the weasel (Mustela nivalis). As for the birds, with a little luck we can see, or hear, the sebelin (Burhinus oedicnemus).

The sink and its inhabitants
A few hundred meters below the houses, we find a small laundry room that allows you to drink from the herd of the farm and also serves as a habitat for many plants, such as the foot of Christ (Potentilla reptans), the celery. Apium nodiflorum), the falzia (Adiantum capillus-veneris), mosses and algae. Among animals, there are many that live at least part of their cycle in the water, such as crustaceans, mollusks and insects. The frog (Pelophylax perezi) finds in the pond an ideal environment for reproduction among algae, while the water snake (Natrix maura) hides there to hunt them. In summer, when water is scarce, the laundry becomes a center of life. The Park’s fountains, laundries and ponds are regularly cleaned to keep them in good condition. Its abandonment would mean the disappearance of this small ecosystem.

Ses Murades
The Es Verger valley is closed to the east by an impressive set of cliffs that make up Ses Murades. Behind this natural barrier opens the Albarca pass, which forms the access to the estate from Artà. Swordsmen are colonized by a type of often endemic rupicolous flora such as rock sucker (Crepis triasii) and mallard (Helichrysum ambiguum). Rocks are also used by some very valuable bird species as a breeding ground. This is the case of the sparrow (Monticola solitarius), which lives in the rocky areas of the coast and in the mountains, the sparrowhawk (Hieraaetus pennatus), a small eagle that has one of the most important populations of Mallorca in the mountains of ‘Artà, and the peregrine falcon (Falco peregrinus), which always hunts in the air taking advantage of the enormous acceleration of its bites. The presence of these and other birds of prey, such as the moofeta voltonera (Neophron percnopterus) and the milana (Milvus milvus), make the Natural Park of the Levante Peninsula of high faunal interest.

El coll de sa Barrereta
When we finish the descent through the valley, before starting the ascent to the Coll de sa Barrereta, we find a pine forest where various tasks are carried out aimed at preventing forest pests. After the pine forest, it is worth enjoying the magnificent views: the valley of Es Verger, where we arrived, protected by Ses Murades and Puig des Corb, the olive grove of Albarca, the houses of Sa Cova, the Puig de s ‘Águila in the background on the right and the Puig des Telegraf with the watchtower of Son Jaumell on the left. Among the birds we can hear in the pine forests are the woodpecker (Loxia curvirrostra), the finch (Fringilla coelebs), the greenfinch (Carduelis chloris), the bull’s eye (Phylloscopus collybita), the anthill (Jynx torquilla), the blind (Scolopax rusticola) and the tudó (Columba palumbus). Only during the winter can we see the robin (Erithacus rubecula) and the white robin (Motacilla alba), very common on crops and roads. On the sidewalks we will see ruderal plants such as the artichoke borda or cheese thistle (Cynara cardunculus), whose flowers were traditionally used to make cheese. At the height of the torrent, which joins several times with the path we follow, we see steppes, sieves, signs and pads that appear on the outcrops of rock.

The olive grove and the houses of Albarca
Following our route we cross the Ses Monjoies olive grove and an area of ​​holm oak groves until we reach the crossroads with the path from Son Puça. Hanging from the olive trees are phosphate traps to prevent the plague of the olive fly. From the olives harvested in Albarca, organically produced olive oil is made, which is highly prized. The olives are pressed outside the farms, although the Albarca refinery, still attached to the back of the owners’ house, is still in very good condition. At the signposted crossroads, take the path on the right that takes you to Albarca in just a few minutes. Just before reaching the houses we will see some sestadores and then, on the right, the laundry. The houses of Albarca, dating from the 13th century, are two buildings (house of the owners and house of the lords) joined by two carpanells arches (water canals). The roofs, of Arabic tile, have two gutters. There are several separate outbuildings: barns, country houses, cellars, dining rooms and a woodshed. Ceramic remains from the medieval period, both of Islamic and Christian origin, have been found behind the houses of Albarca. The house of the lords, or house of s’Alzina, is today a mountain refuge, managed by the Government of the Balearic Islands.

Way of the Prisoners

Difficulty: Medium
Duration: 2 h
Recommendations: Comfortable footwear
Topic: Natural, ethnological and historical interest
Description: The route starts at the houses of s’Alqueria Vella de Baix and follows the Camino dels Presos, which goes up the valley of s’Alqueria Vella to the foot of Es Porrassar, reaches the Campament des Soldats , and from there it continues to the top of the Puig de sa Tudossa, where we can enjoy an excellent view. The route presents innumerable points of natural, ethnological and historical interest.
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Stages

The S’Alqueria Vella estate
The estate of s’Alqueria Vella (374.72 ha) was acquired by the Government of the Balearic Islands in 2001. Together with the estates of Albarca and es Verger (1127.9 ha) they are included in the Natural Park of the Levant peninsula. The valley of s’Alqueria Vella is located at an altitude of about 230 m, hosts more than a dozen different buildings and is surrounded by the slopes of the Freda watchtower, es Porrassar, Puig des Corb and Puig Figuer i Genet . The houses of s’Alqueria Vella de Baix, at the entrance to the Park, are modest and robust in appearance, with few openings in the walls. Their location on a hill at a certain height makes them stand out in their surroundings, the valley. The plains of the valley have been cultivated since time immemorial. The olive grove and sheep farming were the basis of the farm’s economy. Currently, the farms are managed under the criteria of the Balearic Council of Organic Agricultural Production (CBPAE). The sheep of s’Alqueria Vella, es Verger and Albarca are of Mallorcan breed, and take advantage of the spontaneous vegetation, stubble and almond leaves. There are more than 500 of them and they are mainly used for meat production.

The houses of s’Alqueria Vella de Dalt
To get to Sa Tudossa you have to cross a barrier at the height of the houses and follow the path. At the bottom of the valley there is an olive grove and in front of us the white rock of Puig des Corb. After a few bends, the path that goes down to the houses of s’Alqueria Vella de Dalt is on the left. These farmhouses are the second most important building in the estate and date from the 19th century; they are made up of the owners ’houses, as well as the sestadors, the villages and a cistern, which are isolated from the houses. Near the houses, there is a ferris wheel, recently restored, and other ethnological elements such as drinking troughs, cattle ranches, numerous banks and some horseshoe paths: one of these descends parallel to the path of the Prisoners towards the houses. of s’Alqueria Vella de Baix. Along this route we find the refinery and the garages, which were used by the inhabitants of both s’Alqueria Vella de Baix and those of Dalt. We pass the detour that leads to these houses, the route continues for about 200 m along the Camino dels Presos until you take the detour to the right, along the path that enters the pine forest of Puig des Corb and reaches the Campament des Soldiers.

The pine forest
The Natural Park of the Llevant Peninsula is home to a wide variety of habitats for hundreds of species of flora and fauna. Forests are scarce in the mountains of Artà, due to the repeated fires they have suffered. The pine forests are an excellent refuge for birds, such as the capferrerico (Parus major), the woodpecker (Loxia curvirostra), the finch (Fringilla coelebs) and the greenfinch (Carduelis chloris). Hanging from the pines you can see nesting boxes, placed to encourage the presence of insectivorous birds, especially the capferrerico, which help to naturally fight the plague of the pine processionary. Due to its location in the shade of Puig des Corb, this pine forest is quite shady and we can find many types of mushrooms, climbing plants, such as the robineta (Rubia peregrina), the rèvola (Galium sp) and endemics such as the pig rapa. (Cyclamen balearicum). The pine forest extends to a stream, partly embedded in a dry stone wall, while the path climbs between abandoned terraces, a testament to the work of the settlers of these lands in the 19th century and the prisoners of the Camp. Crossing the sky, above the forest, you can often see how the milan (Milvus milvus), a very beautiful bird of prey, flying elegantly. The declaration of the Natural Park led to the protection of these mountains, and this has allowed the reintroduction of this species in the region of Llevant, where it had been considered extinct for years.

Soldier Camp
Outside the pine forest, the path leads again to the Camino dels Presos, a short distance from the Campament des Soldats. The Camp is now a pile of ruins, but between 1941 and 1942, after the end of the Civil War, it was used as a penitentiary colony by hundreds of prisoners of the Franco regime. The prisoners built the road in exchange for redeeming their sentence (hence the Prisoners’ Way). It was to reach Sa Talaia Moreia, where a fort armed with coastal batteries was to be built. In the Camp we can still intuit the offices of the officers, the canteen, the warehouse, the hospital and imagine the conditions in which the prisoners lived inside the barracks. An engraved stone commemorates people who were sentenced to forced labor. Follow the sign for s’Arenalet. If we look back we have the valley of s’Alqueria, with the Puig des Corb on the left, and on its right the Sierra Artana, from the Bec de Ferrutx, to the Puig de sa Creu and the watchtower Freda, or Puig Morei, which at 563 m is the highest peak in this mountain range.

The mountain and the fires
Advancing along the path, we find a landscape dominated by the cart and the wind, now open to hikers who make this path, but once only littered by shepherds, palm pickers, towers and smugglers. The landscape is closely related to human activities, especially the secular use of fire as a method of obtaining tender reeds for grazing sheep. This explains the lack of forests on these slopes, where reeds have sprouted countless times, while other species did not suffer the same fate after each fire. The Government of the Balearic Islands makes many efforts to prevent and quickly extinguish forest fires. The Llevant County Forest Fire Defense Plan considers the Camino dels Presos a quick and safe way to act in the event of a fire. To ensure the safety of firefighters, the sides of the road have been cleared of vegetation. On the other hand, action has also been taken to regenerate the forest cover, as can be seen in 9 plots along the Camino dels Presos, where native species have been planted so that, in the medium term. , these rolls develop and become nuclei of seed dispersal to nearby areas. The plots are fenced off to prevent sheep and goats from grazing.

Sa Tudossa
We will have to continue ascending if we want to reach the Puig de sa Tudossa (441 m). From the top we can enjoy magnificent views, both towards the north coast of the Llevant peninsula, with the island of Menorca in the background (visible on clearer days), and above the bay of Alcúdia. This is definitely a good place to think about the use of the coast throughout history. From Sa Tudossa you can identify the towers of Sa Talaia Moreia, just behind us; the one in Albarca or des Matzoc, further down the coast; and that of Son Jaumell or des Telegraf, on the Capdepera side. Between the 16th and 18th centuries, during the period of pirate and corsair attacks, the network of watchtowers or watchtowers communicated through fire and smoke signals was designed. Later, cannons were incorporated into some towers, such as the Albarca tower, and thus served as a defense. These towers, spread along the coast, are part of our cultural heritage. Since the 18th century, smuggling has emerged as a social response due to high tax control over imported products. The coast we see from this hill, between Pollença and Capdepera, was a very important point of gender landing, especially the coves hidden in the middle of the steepest stretches of coast (Caló de Ferrutx, Cala na Picarandau, Sa Font Celada, Penya Red …) We can also see the Colonia de Sant Pere, founded in 1880 with 66 families, in order to encourage the cultivation of new land at a time when the increase in population required the plowing of new land to deal with hunger. . The coast of Alcúdia Bay also received the arrival of mass tourism: around the years 1950-60, thousands of tourists arrived in agricultural Mallorca looking for sun and beach. The poorest lands by the sea, which no one wanted, are being revalued. It is the time of unplanned urban growth: Can Picafort, the port of Alcúdia, … From the end of the last century, and until now, the landscape remains as an achievement of protected natural spaces and other urbanized . Among the first, we can enjoy the Natural Park of s’Albufera de Mallorca and the Park you are now visiting, the Llevant Peninsula. At the end of the itinerary, we can take advantage of this space to rest and eat, to gain strength for the way back to the houses of s’Alqueria. On the way down it is interesting to visit the houses of s’Alqueria Vella. We can also go down to the beach of s’Arenalet des Verger by the Camí d’en Mondoi (75 minutes) or by the one of s’Esquena Llarga, passing by the refuge des Oguers, (75 minutes).

Camí de s’Esquena Llargas

Difficulty: Low
Distance: 4.2 km (One way)
Duration: 75 min
Description: S’Esquena Llarga is a ridge path that connects the Camino dels Presos (ascent to the Puig de sa Tudossa) with the refuge of Es Oguers and s’Arenalet des Verger. The path, which crosses the Es Verger estate, allows you to enjoy beautiful panoramic views of the Artà mountains, which extend to the Capdepera and Es Freu capes. This last head and that of Ferrutx are two nature reserves.
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Stages

Mountains and watchtowers
From Camí dels Presos, s’Esquena Llarga starts as a tyrant in an easterly direction, until reaching the refuge of Es Oguers. As we advance along the gentle slope, we leave behind the torrent of s’Arboçaret, the cliffs of Es Porrassar (which extend to the hill of the same name), s’Esquena Pintada and s’Esquena Curta. From right to left, the peaks of the Puig des Porrassar, the Puig d’en Pelegrí, the Puig de sa Fèl·lera, the Puig de s’Àguila and the Puig des Telègraf or Son Jaumell watchtower are perfectly distinguishable. The tower that crowns this last hill is visible from Sa Talaia Moreia (16th century), a watchtower built at the highest point of Cap Ferrutx. The location of the towers allowed to dominate a wide panorama and to detect the corsair approaches to the coast, quite common in Mallorca from the 16th to the 18th centuries. The towers, when seeing dangerous ships docked, alerted the neighboring towers by means of smoke signals, that relayed the message in a chained way until reaching the populations. The Albarca tower (or Torre des Matzoc, 17th century), with a cannon for its defense, can be seen on the cut coast.

Sea of ​​reeds
The landscape of the first sections of the road is dominated by a herbaceous plant with thin, long and rough leaves: the reed (Ampelodesmos mauritanica), a grass of basically North African distribution that covers large areas in the mountains of Levante and Tramuntana. The continuity of the cart is only interrupted by the intense green of the sieves. On windy days, waves form in the sea of ​​reeds and the effect evokes cereal fields. Despite the abundance of this plant in the Park, here we have the opportunity to enjoy one of the few Mauritanian Ampelodesmos carts in Europe. In the past, the cart was used to make ropes, mats, ties to tie the sheaves and, since the tourist boom, also to make umbrellas for the beaches. Despite the apparent uniformity, in this sea of ​​reeds we will also find plants such as the steppe joana (Hypericum balearicum), endemic to the Balearic Islands, the sea onion (Urginea maritima) and the yellow fennel or holy grass (Thapsia gymnesica), endemic of Mallorca and Menorca. Observe them carefully, photograph or draw them, but do not take plants from the Natural Park. The fence we left at the beginning of the road protects a forest repopulation from the voraciousness of the hundreds of golden goats that graze these lands. The aim of these small repopulations is that, as they grow, the pines act as seed dispersers so that trees can be born in places where cyclical fires have exhausted the seed bank that is preserved in the soil after a fire. . One of the aims of the Natural Park is to encourage the increase of vegetation cover, especially trees, to reverse the current desertification trend. For this reason, fire prevention tasks are carried out, reforestation is carried out and the goat population is controlled.

The sieve and the palm tree
Along the route, the sagebrush (Chamaerops humilis) abounds, a small palm tree that in Mallorca we only find in four areas: Andratx, Formentor, Cap des Pinar and the Llevant peninsula. In spring it blooms in very small yellow flower clusters; the tender heart of the stem is edible, as are the dates (plomissons), which are rich in tannin, an astringent substance, and before they have matured serve to stop diarrhea. This plant has been very important for the local economy, since from the tender palms (bark) woven by expert hands a wide variety of products (palm work) is obtained for daily life, whether they are signs, granaries, caves, fans, hats, baskets, mats, saddles or firewood. The palms are collected until the day of Sant Salvador (August 6) or at the latest until Sant Roc (August 16), since from then on the nights get longer and the dew bathes the palms ; but especially because heavy rains are beginning to become more common. Once plucked, the leaves of the sieve should be sunny and then soaked so that they turn white. Finally, strands are made and the bark is braided so that the desired pieces can be made. Garballó is a species included in the Balearic Catalog of Endangered Species. The collection of the palms for the artisan elaboration of palm work is allowed, since it does not have negative effects on the plant. Permission must be requested in advance.

S’Arboçaret
At the bottom to the right of our path you can see a different vegetation, much greener and denser; this is the comellar of s’Arboçaret, accessible (15 min) on the right hand side of the fork of the Pla dels Castellots. As its name suggests, this place is characterized by the abundance of arbutus (Arbutus unedo), an edible fruit bush that is able to regrow after a fire. Arboretums are found in areas where the soil is deeper, and in places formerly occupied by holm oaks or olive groves, such as the one we are looking at. Less than 50 years ago, in S’Arboçaret, the hermits of Bethlehem still had swarms that produced honey in houses made of reeds, clay and perforated sandstone plugs. The houses were covered with tiles to prevent them from bathing in the rain. So, in addition to getting honey, they had plenty of wax for candles and for making waxed thread, which shoemakers used to make shoes and saddlers to sew leather trimmings for beasts. The Arbocer dels Ermitans stood out for its size among all the arbors. In the fall, shrubs are a real treat for migratory birds, such as thrushes (Turdus philomelos) and starlings (Sturnus vulgaris), which arrive hungry on their journey south. These fruits also like the crow (Corvus corax), although carrion is the basis of their diet.

La font des Oguers: a wildlife observatory
The last bends of the Camí de s’Esquena Llarga open the view of the coast of s’Arenalet and lead us to the fork of the Pla dels Castellots. Turning left we come to the Font des Oguers, at the foot of the Puig de sa Font, a good place to observe many species that come to the sink to drink. The water flows for much of the year and is used in the refuge of the house of Es Oguers. The fountain undergoes a wonderful change in the evenings: when the sun goes down, many mountain dwellers take advantage of the coolness to go out. It is the time when you can see bats hunting night insects. If lucky, four of the eleven different species described on the Levant Peninsula may appear. Also in the Font des Oguers you can hear the frog (Pelophylax perezi), an amphibian that takes advantage of this water point, so scarce in the whole Park. The calapet (Bufo balearicus) is a species threatened by the progressive disappearance of the habitats where it reproduces (ponds, fountains, cisterns…), we can hardly see it because it is an animal of nocturnal and twilight habits, but in spring we can hear it sing from great distances.

The refuge of Es Oguers
The refuge of Es Oguers allows you to enjoy the mountains, although it is only a few minutes from the sea. If we continue down the path from where we came, we will soon reach s’Arenalet des Verger, where the itinerary ends. From the refuge of Es Oguers on clear days you can see in the distance the profile of the island of Menorca and with binoculars you can even see some white houses on its coast.

Camí d’en Mondoi

Difficulty: Medium
Duration: 90 min
Description: The Camí d’en Mondoi connects the Camí des Presos with the Pla de ses Bitles, from where you can descend to s’Arenalet des Verger, and is a privileged viewpoint to enjoy ‘one of the most beautiful and well-preserved stretches of the Mallorcan coast. The landscape that can be seen is clearly characteristic of the Artana mountain: sinuous reliefs furrowed by comellars and torrent inns. A sea of ​​reeds dotted with some pines, mountains at the mercy of the winds and the successive forest fires that have transformed its vegetation and physiognomy over the years. As a background, the Mediterranean blavor of the sea and the sky.
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Stages

A world hidden beneath our feet
We start the route where the Camino dels Presos forks, at the foot of the summit of Sa Tudossa. The works on this road revealed strange shapes in the rocks, crevices and streams with crystals, which had remained hidden for a long time. Carbon dioxide-laden rainwater dissolves the limestone of these mountains, creating a multitude of morphologies both above and below ground. We call this slow process karstification. On the surface we can find holes, fissures, mouths of chasms. At some depth, beneath our feet, the mountain hides a whole labyrinth of unimaginable crevices, galleries, caverns, tunnels and caves, and yet to be discovered. Underground cavities have such special environmental conditions that they only allow the survival of beings adapted to the absence of light, a very high degree of humidity and an almost constant temperature throughout the year. Despite these difficulties, life exists and takes very interesting forms for science. Many caves and chasms are listed as points of scientific interest (ICPs) or sites of community importance (SCIs). An example in the Park is the Travessets abyss (PIC), where a cave pseudoscorpion endemic to Mallorca, called Roncus vidali, lives.

On the way to the sea
A small group of large pines mark us where the path begins, formerly traversed by coal miners, palm pickers and smugglers. The slope becomes steeper and we enter the cart that covers these slopes. In the area, in addition to the absence of trees and the abundance of reeds, thistles, the steppe joana (Hypericum balearicum), endemic nun pads such as the black rat weevil (Astragalus balearicus) and the white rat weevil (Teucrium marum subsp. occidentale), and some rosemary bush (Rosmarinus officinalis). In the summer, if we look closely at the ground, we can see the edge (Micromeria filiformis), a small plant with tiny white flowers that takes advantage of the protection of the nun’s pads to develop. Constant and intense winds are a factor that conditions life on the mountain; the pads take rounded shapes to withstand these blows. The orange, green, white or black spots we see on the stones are lichens, fascinating living things, the result of the symbiotic union of an alga and a fungus. They exist in very different types and shapes and adapt to a wide variety of habitat conditions, but are very sensitive to pollution. Its presence indicates that the air quality is very good. Some lichens are used in folk medicine for their antibiotic properties, in perfumery, in dyes and also as food.

El Pi de sa Romana
At the end of the back where the Camí d’en Mondoi runs is, according to tradition, the Pi de sa Romana, where a Roman was hung to weigh the coal and palms that were made in the area. The exploitation of the mountains and the forest has been more intense than one might think: shepherds who used fire to have new pastures for the sheep; men coming down to snatch palms; oguers who had mention of the mares and mules of the lords of Albarca; coal miners and lumberjacks who took out the metro (pieces of wood) when carts could still travel on Mondoi’s road; mails trying to hide the smuggling genre somewhere along this coast; etc. On the other hand, the toponymy related to the smuggling activity is quite common along the Artana coast. In the vicinity of Albarca and es Verger there are places called s’Embarcador, na Destorbajornals, the caseta des Milicians, the camí des Carabiners or the Corral des Tabac. When you reach the fork in the road, continue to the right, towards the Arenalet des Verger, crossing the plain of Ses Bitles.

The Ses Bitles Plan
The oak (Chamaerops humilis) abounds in this undulating plain, from which an interesting palm craft has developed in the region. We can also see a large number of young trees surrounded by an extensive fence that protects them from the pressure of goats and other herbivores. This large repopulation has been financed by a well-known German tour operator. Below the sieves, the steppes and the reeds in the Pla, it is common to find some turtles grazing. The Mediterranean tortoise (Testudo hermanni) lives in coastal or sub-coastal environments, especially in scrublands, croplands and olive groves in much of Mallorca and Menorca. During the colder months, she buries herself in a hole that she slowly digs out. It comes out of winter between April and May. Then, like other reptiles, he spends much of the day warming himself in the sun and looking for food; it is practically vegetarian. Turtles are exposed to many threats: they hardly escape forest fires; urbanizations, infrastructures and communication routes occupy their habitat or isolate their populations; they are very sensitive to pesticides used on crops or sidewalks; there are animals that prey on their eggs and young; they have also been traditionally collected to have them as “pets” in corrals and terraces illegally, and all this makes it increasingly difficult to find them in their natural environment. The Government of the Balearic Islands is carrying out campaigns to collect captive turtles and reintroduce them into their environment. One of the main centers of release and monitoring has been the Natural Park of the Levante Peninsula. In the Ses Bitles plain, it can be seen that the predominant species in the repopulations is the white pine (Pinus halepensis), a fast-growing species that is very well adapted to the summer drought. Leaving the plain of Ses Bitles, the view opens up to s’Arenalet des Verger, in the background you can see the northern coast of Artà and Capdepera, where the tower of Albarca and Cap des Freu stand out, and if we advance a few bends we will contemplate the enormous escarpments of Penya Roja that emerge from the sea. Looking at the sky, we may be able to see how the osprey (Pandion haliaetus) glides, feeding on the coast; and the miloca or moixeta voltonera (Neophron percnopterus), a scavenger species that nests on the rocks of the Cap Ferrutx Nature Reserve. At dusk the rocky wall acquires magnificent shades, from orange to violet, and although almost naked, it is stained with a very special vegetation capable of withstanding the strong winds laden with salt and even the splashes of the waves of the sea. Saladins (Limonium sp.) Or sea fennel (Crithmum maritimum) share space with birds such as the Corsican gull (Larus audouinii) and the colonies of cormorants (Phalacrocorax aristotelis).

S’Arenalet des Verger
A last descent along this dusty path leads us to s’Arenalet des Verger. It is not difficult to guess that it is a small white sand beach, a special place in the middle of this predominantly rocky coast. The low attendance of this space has allowed some signs of dune formations to be preserved. In the modest dunes behind the beach there are thistles (Eryngium maritimum) and finches (Euphorbia sp.) Among the pebbles and saulons (bits from a nearby rocky outcrop) that the sea has pushed towards the vorera. It is common to find seaweed and sea olives, that is, leaves and fruits of Posidonia oceanica, a marine plant that, in addition to other ecological functions essential for marine ecosystems, helps protect the sand from beaches. Very close to the beach is one of the three shelters in the Park, as well as a camping area, all managed by the Government of the Balearic Islands. In the past, the refuge was known as the lodge des senyor, and was the summer resort of the owners of the Es Verger and Albarca estates; later it was used for hunting parties; Since 2000, when it was acquired by the Autonomous Community of the Balearic Islands, the estates have been declared a Wildlife Refuge and are dedicated to nature conservation and public enjoyment. From here you can take various routes. If we have time, it is highly recommended to know the source of Penya Roja, an easy walk (20 minutes) through the bed of the torrent and the bushes. If our intention is to return to the Puig de sa Tudossa, we can take another peak along the Camí d’en Mondoi or along the Esquena Llarga (90 minutes), a gentler ascent. On the other hand, we could reach Cala Estreta and Cala Mitjana (90 minutes) by the Camino dels Carabiners, which follows the coast and passes by the Albarca tower (30 minutes).

Camí dels Horts Vells d’Albarca

Difficulty: Low
Duration: 60 min
Description: The Horts Vells d’Albarca route is very special for several reasons: it offers the opportunity to walk in one of the few holm oak groves that can currently be found on public estates, it allows you to get to know the dedicated spaces in the orchard since ancient times of the possession of Albarca, and discovers the most hidden corners of the torrent of Es Matzoc before it reaches the sea.
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Stages

The houses of Albarca
The path starts near the houses of Albarca. This Mallorcan property, bought by the Government of the Balearic Islands in 2000, includes, among other buildings, the house of the lords, now used as a refuge, and the house of the owners, as well as the villages, the soles, the refinery and the sestadors. Between the two houses, connected by arches that function as water pipes, there is a corridor at the end of which, turning to the right, the path down to the Horts Vells begins.

The Albarca holm oak grove and the Es Matzoc torrent
Following the path of the Horts Vells we enter a shady and humid holm oak grove, which forms one of the most differentiated environments of the Natural Park. Humans have used holm oak groves as a source of resources for centuries, to obtain wood, coal and lime, and also as a space for feeding flocks (pigs, sheep, goats, mares and oxen). The continued use of holm oak groves by lumberjacks, charcoal burners, calciners, and shepherds with their flocks has led to a series of alterations in their size, appearance and species. The dense forest has been transformed into small groves of stout oaks or meadows, with few herbaceous plants below. Inside the holm oak grove you can find large shrubs, such as the arbutus tree (Arbutus unedo) and the bush (Pistacia lentiscus), and smaller ones, such as the Bethlehem cherry (Ruscus aculeatus) and the poplar (Daphne gnidium). Lianas, such as ivy (Hedera helix) and sucker (Lonicera implexa), climb trees in search of light, while other plants, such as porcini bread (Cyclamen balearicum) and monk’s turnip (Arisarum vulgare) , live in shady conditions. Take the opportunity to hear the sounds of the birds that inhabit this place, such as the ferrerico (Parus major), the finch (Fringilla coelebs) and the owl (Otus scops). During autumn and winter you can see thrushes (Turdus philomelos) and thrushes (Erithacus rubecula). The Albarca holm oak grove is surrounded by crops, hedges and scrubland, and is therefore rich in species of terrestrial mammals such as the genet (Genetta genetta), the hedgehog (Atelerix algirus) and the cellar rat (Eliomys quercinus). The Es Matzoc stream flows through the holm oak grove, which is occasionally approached by the path. The terrain that runs through the torrent is very permeable, and this causes water to seep through. Thus, the subsoil of the torrent maintains the necessary humidity for holm oaks and aloes (Vitex agnus castus), protected shrubs that flank the bed of the torrent. They say that the flowers of the alocs, purple and very fragrant, were formerly used by hermits to reduce sexual desire. Near the torrent you will hear the woodpecker (Troglodytes troglodytes), the flycatcher (Muscicapa striata) or the black grouse (Sylvia melanocephala).

Els Horts Vells and the laundry
After the holm oak grove, the route passes through the area known as the Horts Vells. In this area, olive trees are scattered among the cereal crops intended for sheep feed. In the past, this space was used as a vegetable garden, taking advantage of the accessibility of the water. In fact, shortly after leaving the holm oak grove there is a well, and a little further on is on the right the laundry where the irrigation water is stored. This laundry is also a good point for water supply for wildlife. On the way, we find birds such as the red-tailed deer (Phoenicurus ochruros), present in winter hunting insects among the stones; the sole (Emberiza calandra) and the black-necked gardener (Emberiza cirlus), singing in the higher parts of the olive groves; the reddish-breasted passerine (Carduelis cannabina), the exotic puput (Upupa epops) with its characteristic crest, the blackbird (Turdus merula), the swallow (Hirundo rustica), a forked-tailed summer visitor, and the colorful goldfinch (Carduelis). carduelis) eating seeds on thistles and vulture (Serinus serinus) of bright yellow colors. Among the plants of the region stands out the reed (Ferula communis), very colorful when it blooms, from May. This plant is linked to the traditions of the region, as the demons of Artà wear cane trunks in the dances of the festivities of Sant Antoni. We leave the fence and the path that communicates with the private estate of Sa Cova on the right and go up a slope that borders fields and carts, until we reach a high point that provides very wide views to the sea. To the right, the panorama opens up and we can see Sa Talaia Moreia. Following the route, you can see an old quarry, from where they say that all the stone needed for the construction of the houses in Albarca was extracted. When you reach the wide path, you can turn left, starting a continuous ascent that leads to the houses of Albarca. If we wanted to go to s’Arenalet des Verger, we would have to take the path to the right.

The lime kiln
The route continues to the right through a valley known as the Corral des Tabac. The place name recalls the relationship that this area maintained with smuggling for decades. On the side of the road we also find a lime kiln in a fairly satisfactory state of preservation. What was lime used for and how did a lime kiln work? Lime was used for 3,000 years and until it was replaced by cement (since the 19th century, but especially after the Civil War), the conglomerate most used to join and protect materials. In addition, lime was used to whiten, disinfect and sulphate plants against pests. The lime was produced in stone kilns with a circular plan and a normally conical section, often excavated on the slope. The stones were stacked in a circle inside the kiln, and baked at 900-1,000 ° C. A window or “mouth” was left at the bottom to introduce firewood. Baking could last from a few hours to 15 days, depending on the dimensions of the oven. Once the stones were burnt, the vault was dismantled in spikes, and the stones were crumbled into lumps of quicklime. Where did they get the fuel for the lime kiln? The fuel used to clear the forest was used as fuel. In an oven, 700 to 1,800 bundles of firewood, 30 to 40 kg each, could be burned to obtain more than 20 tons of lime. The use of firewood and vegetation prevented the risk of fires. So, the lime kiln on this route is proof that in the past the area around the kiln was wooded. Repeated fires and excessive logging reduced its extent to the present day.

The return to Albarca
The way back shows us species that we had not been able to observe until now, such as rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis), cypress (Erica multiflora) and lemon steppe (Cystus monspeliensis), as well as other species that we had already seen nearby. the cultivated fields of the Horts Vells (pines, olive trees, reeds). If you stay until dusk, in the vicinity of the houses of Albarca you will see two species of woody rats: the common (Pipistrellus pipistrellus), small, which prefers humanized places, and the long-tailed woodpecker (Tadarida teniotis), much larger, which usually takes refuge in the crevices of the rocks.

The source of Penya Roja

Difficulty: Low
Duration: 15 min
Description: The Penya Roja fountain route is a very comfortable walk that takes us into the heart of the mountains of the Llevant Peninsula Natural Park following the course of the Penya Roja torrent. The torrent and the path intertwine up to nine times, offering a stunning landscape each time. It is worth visiting the splendid trees and the fragile surroundings of the Penya Roja fountain.
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Camping area of ​​s’Arenalet des Verger
We start the route in the pine forest of the camping area of ​​s’Arenalet des Verger and go up the path parallel to the torrent. The pine forest, near the Penya Roja torrent, is one of the few that has survived the repeated fires in the area. If we remain silent for a while, we will easily observe some birds such as the dove (Streptopelia turtur), the woodpecker (Columba palumbus) or the flycatcher (Muscicapa striata). There is no shortage of signs of activity in small mammals: rabbit digs and pineapples bitten by the stubborn mouse on the pine leaf mat. Matapoll (Delphinium pictum ssp. Pictum) stands out for its abundance in the camping area. This plant is endemic to Mallorca, Corsica and Sardinia. Some parts of the matapoll were formerly used as an insecticide because of their toxicity. At the edge of the pine forest you can see a fence that delimits an old orchard where some fig trees still survive. Inside this fence is located the tank that supplies water to the refuge of s’Arenalet. The water comes from the Penya Roja spring.

Silo rolls
The two rolls of silage in the pine forest are a testament to a traditional logging operation in the past. Silos were used to produce charcoal. Coal was much needed for stoves, braziers and grills. To make the roll, the charcoal burner placed the stones forming a circular cobblestone. Smaller stones were placed on the cobblestones and a layer of red clay was placed on top of them. Then the wood and the branch were placed to finally cover everything with earth. To produce 26 kg of coal, 100 kg of good quality wood, such as oak, arbocera and olive trees, were needed. This activity was carried out by the coal miner and his family during the spring and summer months. The cooking of the wood until it became charcoal lasted about 9 days, during which the process had to be carefully controlled. There are written testimonies that the coal miner who worked in the 1930s on the estates of Es Verger and Albarca exhumed the oaks next to the source of the Oguers and s’Arboceret. This shows the existence of holm oak not long ago in areas where it does not exist today.

The secrets
In the vicinity of s’Arenalet and in the direction of Cala Roja, there are two smuggling secrets, evidence of the illegal tobacco trade. These cavities excavated in the ground, very abundant on the coast of Mallorca, perfectly hid the load of tobacco, “es bulto”, which landed in the darkest nights to avoid being discovered by militiamen or carabinieri guarding the coast. The secret was covered with stones, so that it was perfectly camouflaged in the ground.

Ses Cuines
Following the course of the torrent we will cross a dense bush before reaching a plateau surrounded by rocky walls. We will immediately appreciate the cavities on the left side of the road. This place is known as Ses Cuines. Right in front of Ses Cuines, on the right-hand side of the road, there is a repopulation from 2003 made with the aim of actively contributing to the recovery of the forest masses in the area. The fence and metal protectors prevent the devastating effects of golden goats on vegetation. The high number of goats is, along with forest fires, the main obstacle to the recovery of forests.

A walk through the bush
The arbutus tree (Arbutus unedo), so abundant in this section of the route, is a shrub that is usually associated with holm oaks or olive groves, although it is also found in the scrubland when the forest has regressed. We can see arboretums in humid places or with a lot of soil, such as the Penya Roja torrent basin, where there was probably an holm oak grove in the past. In the autumn, these shrubs offer us the opportunity to taste the arbutus, fruits that need a year to ripen: first they are green, then yellow and finally an intense red. This last phase of maturation coincides with flowering. On warm, windless days, you may find the spectacular arbutus butterfly (Charaxes jasius) abundant in the Artà area. Caterpillars, also showy, feed mainly on arbutus leaves.

The source of Penya Roja
At the end of the path, we cross the torrent for the ninth time on our route. We follow its course until we reach a pool between the rushes. The source of Penya Roja springs in the middle of the torrent, at an altitude of about 50 m above sea level. The lime that contains the water emanating from the spring precipitates in the form of calcium carbonate on the rocks, and the vegetables that the water finds in its path are embedded in it. The result is the formation of a limestone rock where fragments of reeds, ferns, and perfectly appreciable mosses are included. The formation of stalactites and stalagmites in the caves of our islands is also caused by the same phenomenon: the precipitation of calcium carbonate dissolved in water. If we approach slowly, we will be surprised by the frogs singing as they sunbathe. The frog (Pelophylax perezi) has a very variable coloration between green and brown, with dark spots. It was introduced to the Balearic Islands by humans and is distributed throughout the Iberian Peninsula and southern France. One of the main predators of the frog is the water snake (Natrix maura), also present in the area, but much more discreet and difficult to observe. The surroundings of the spring are of remarkable botanical interest, as endemic plants such as the thimble (Digitalis minor), the brute (Teucrium asiaticum), Scutellaria balearica and Sibthorpia africana can be seen. The source provides water all year round at the s’Arenalet refuge. The future of the torrent environment depends on the balance between the shelter’s water consumption and the amount that the source provides. For this reason, it is necessary to reduce water consumption in shelters to the bare minimum. With a little effort, we will all be able to enjoy the charm of this fountain for many years to come. Your collaboration is essential to achieve this! When returning home, remember that reducing water consumption is important in order to preserve many other springs, ponds and wetlands that disappear when too much water is extracted from aquifers.

Campament des Soldats – Es Verger

Difficulty: Low
Distance: 0.8 km
Duration: 30 min
Description: The itinerary we suggest brings together two important architectural ensembles of the Natural Park: the Campat des Soldats and the houses of Es Verger. The promenade crosses the Es Verger estate, between the Es Porrassar and Es Corb hills, and runs at a height that provides us with open views of the sea, with the panoramic view of Menorca on the horizon, and which also allows us to see the highest mountains of the Sierra de Llevant. This route gives us the opportunity to visit with a circular route of approximately two hours from the car park of the Natural Park, if we combine it with the Camino dels Presos (itinerary 3) and the Camí des Verger to s’Alqueria Vella (itinerary 1). The approximate distance of the route from Campament des Soldats to the houses of Es Verger is one kilometer (5.5 kilometers, the complete route of the three itineraries).
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Stages

Soldier Camp
If we start the walk in the houses of s’Alqueria Vella (car park and information center), we have to take the Camino dels Presos and do the first section of this itinerary (signposted with number 3). The Soldiers’ Camp was built as a prison camp for prisoners in the early 1940s, after the end of the Civil War. It was a colony that housed political and war prisoners of the Republican side, who were taken here, in most cases from the Peninsula, with the aim of doing forced labor to redeem condemnation (such as the construction of the road , hence we know it as the Way of the Prisoners). The road ends almost four kilometers higher, in the direction of Sa Talaia Moreia, where a coastal battery was supposed to be built to defend the island. This element is unique in Mallorca and very rare in the whole of Spain, since the confinement camps were usually detachable constructions and not stone, like the ones we can see here. Among the remains of the Camp, we can sense the different outbuildings that served as the command room, kitchen, warehouse and infirmary, as well as the prisoners’ barracks, which remain in a very poor state of preservation. and we can scarcely imagine the conditions in which they lived there.
The relief of the Park
We cross the Camp and start the walk along the tyrant that moves away in a south-easterly direction. After the fence that surrounds the set of ruins, we find a cistern and some sinks, which were also used by the penitentiary colony. Shortly afterwards we see a last hut and the signposted path leads us to the left, leaving the Puig des Corb behind us. The views open up to us in the distance. We can distinguish the imposing reliefs of Puig Morei (564 m), Puig de sa Tudossa (442 m) and Puig des Porrassar (493 m), to the left of which there is a long dry stone wall that separates the estates. of s’Alqueria Vella and es Verger. Together with Albarca, these two estates were acquired by the Government of the Balearic Islands in 1999 and 2000 and form part of the Natural Park declared in November 2001. Other recognizable reliefs from here, but further away, are the rocks of na Pastora (350 m), just before the valley of the Verger; the watchtower of Son Jaumell (273 m), with a tower to watch the Gabellina coast, and the Puig de sa Vinyassa (361 m). The Sierras de Llevant are the second most important mountain range in Mallorca, after the Serra de Tramuntana. These are mountains of alpine origin, formed during the Cenozoic period. They are the result of tectonic movements that caused significant changes 15 million years ago when the European and African plates collided. Important reliefs formed in the Iberian Peninsula, such as the Pyrenees and the Betic mountains. The mountains of Llevant and Tramuntana are, in fact, a continuation of the latter. As these are fairly recent reliefs, the shapes of the mountains are not rounded, but steep, and bare rock outcrops abound. The rains erode the land and help to wash away the mountain slopes, causing the earth to accumulate on the lower plains.

County torrents
Heavy rains, concentrated mainly in the autumn months, cause occasional avalanches from the torrents in the area, which save large slopes along short distances, which results in a very strong erosive action. The soil on the slopes is impoverished, and the stones are dragged downstream to the beaches. The rolling and washing of the stones determines the characteristic rounded shape of the bales or pebbles on the beach. Many of the ones that originated here can be found in the cove of Font Celada, above a layer of abundant white sand formed mainly by the remains of the shells of many mollusks and marine crustaceans. The different sections of the torrents adopt different names depending on the places through which they pass. Here we see branches of the torrent of Es Porrassar, which, when it joins lower with that of s’Arboçaret, form the torrent of Es Castellot, which flows into the cove of Font Celada.

The mountain and the fires
Within the scope of the Natural Park, the landscape is characterized by the dominance of the large prairie meadows (Ampelodesmos mauritanica), a grass of the grass family that covers much of the land. The origin of this landscape lies in human action, as for many centuries farmers have used the technique of burning reeds to obtain a tender pasture for the flock. The reed has a very high regrowth capacity after a fire, unlike other plants. Over time, the repeated burning of reeds and forest fires have shaped a species-poor landscape with an indisputable dominance of this plant. In order to promote the recovery of the vegetation, the Park’s managers have made and continue to make mixed reforestation, with pines, olive trees, holm oaks and various species of undergrowth. On the other hand, and to reduce the risk of fire, different prevention actions are developed, such as the opening of low-density strips of vegetation on the sides of the roads by grazing donkeys, shallows and cows. It is very possible that in the course of the itinerary and during the autumn or winter we see cows; these are of the Mallorcan breed, a rustic and strong breed that adapts perfectly to the conditions of the mountain. Directed grazing of these animals allows them to act in the places that are considered most necessary to reduce the mass of fuel and prevent possible fires.

The Orchard Houses
After the pass that separates the valley of na Pastora from the valley of the Verger, we see at our feet the main houses of the estate, dating from the fourteenth century, although over time several restorations have been made. The houses of Es Verger were inhabited until the eighties by farmers who cultivated these lands. On the land that descends from the houses to the sea, staggered with terraces and drained by a torrent, there is an extensive and dry agricultural activity intended for the production of food for livestock. Traditionally, however, vegetables and fruits had been grown there, taking advantage of the abundance of water provided by the Font des Verger. This availability of water has made it possible for us to find a large tank located here preventively to fight possible forest fires. From the houses of Es Verger we can start the journey that will take us to the houses of Albarca if we follow the path downhill, or we can take the path back to the parking lot if we go up the coast that climbs behind the houses , heading south, on a short but steep ascent to the Coll des Verger to continue towards s’Alqueria Vella.

Volta als Establits de s’Alqueria Vella

Difficulty: Medium
Distance: 3.4 km
Duration: 90 min
Description: The route starts very close to the s’Alqueria Vella car park. It is a circular route that allows you to observe wide panoramic views of the valley of s’Alqueria Vella and the bay of Alcúdia. The area has great historical and cultural values. From the Establits de s’Alqueria Vella, if we deviate from the itinerary, we will soon be able to reach the hermitage of Bethlehem, a recommended place to visit near the Natural Park.
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Stages

S’Alqueria Vella de Baix
From the car park of s’Alqueria Vella, we have to take the signposted path that goes in the direction of the hermitage of Bethlehem, at about 160 meters we find a crossroads from which the route of the return to the Establishments begins. The ascent to the hermitage of Bethlehem begins narrow, shady and parallel to a wall that separates the public estate s’Alqueria Vella from the neighboring property. It soon climbs, however, and continues on open ground framed by walls and margins delimiting ancient farmland. This path, until the moment when an indication forces us to deviate, is part of the Artà-Lluc route, the second enabled in Mallorca as a GR (hiking route included in the European network of long routes) . Later, the path turns left and separates from the dividing wall. The change of direction allows us to comfortably contemplate the views over the valley, where we distinguish the buildings from the garages and the refinery of s’Alqueria Vella. Further on we see Can Sard, the main houses of the estate, and as a backdrop, the reliefs that enclose the valley: first, the Puig Figuer, with a wall that goes up it and that clearly delimits the Natural Park; then the Puig Genet; then, Puig des Corb, the only one that retains a dense pine forest, and in the background, Es Porrassar, with an almost perfect conical shape.

The Establishments of s’Alqueria Vella
From the very beginning, the large number of dead trees protruding from the carts lining the terraces is striking. After passing a hatch -an opening in a wall separating old properties-, we continue advancing surrounded by stone fences and a homogeneous vegetation of abundant reeds and sieves, species very characteristic of the olive grove, which is the plant community that here invades the old fields. The place name Establits de s’Alqueria Vella gives its name to the whole region we cross and refers to the result of the subdivision of the estates of sa Devesa, Binialgorfa and s’Alqueria Vella that was made at the end of the 19th century with the intention to establish farmers who would break the soil, thus creating new farmland. This practice was encouraged by the state government, which rewarded it with significant tax incentives, given the need for new agricultural land in a time of widespread economic crisis. Poor living conditions in such an inhospitable place as this, along with some unfortunate episodes of epidemics that affected the settler population, triggered the abandonment of this fledgling population center in the first half of the twentieth century. We look where we look, we see remains that indicate the presence of this “colony” of settlers: houses, banks, corrals … Among other houses, we can distinguish Can Murtó, easily identifiable by the cistern neck that rises in front of the house, and after this, only if we continue to pay attention to the surroundings, we can see the huts of Can Serverí, on the left of the road, and Cas Carboner, which is on our right at the last bend of the ascent, before turning -in the direction of the hermitage of Bethlehem. The tranquility of this place can be interrupted by the songs of the summer tit (Anthus campestris), the vitrac (Saxicola torquata), the cucullada (Galerida theklae) and the capercaillie (Sylvia melanocephala) or the passaforadí ( Troglodytes troglodytes), small birds common in these open spaces with shrubby vegetation.

The highlands: Can Duc and the viewpoint
At the end of the ascent, we turn left and soon see a small group of oaks, one of the few that have survived the exploitation and fires. These trees are close to one of the most important houses in the Establishments, Can Duc, which are also in poor condition. About 150 meters after passing Can Duc, a sign turns right; from here, we can see Ca na Manxa in the background. We are in a fairly flat area, the most usable area in the whole region for the cultivation of cereals, which is evidenced by the presence of several eras. These are flat spaces, defined by a simple circular stone structure, where the wheat crop was crushed to beat it and separate the grain from the straw. The eras were located in high places where the wind blew hard, so the grain fell by gravity in the era and the straw was dragged by the wind. We leave behind the path that leads to the hermitage of Bethlehem, and we climb the signposted tyrant that goes up the southern slope of the Puig de sa Creu until we reach a plain on the ridge. This is the culmination of the itinerary, where we can make a stop at a viewpoint from which we can enjoy stunning panoramic views over the marina of Bethlehem, the Colony of St. Peter, the bay of Alcudia, the hermitage of Bethlehem and the already distant valley of s’Alqueria Vella. One of the main values ​​of the Park, the endemic flora, can be seen in the high mountain areas. On the peaks and slopes exposed to the wind is the community of pads formed mainly by the black and white rats (Astragalus balearicus and Teucrium marum). While in the shady cliffs there is a rupicolous community where the rock violet (Hippocrepis balearica), the rock clover (Galium crespianum) and some other endemics such as the rock cabbage (Brassica balearica) stand out.

The return to the valley
The views on the way down are similar to the ones we had on the ascent, but now we will always walk with the view open towards the valley of s’Alqueria Vella. In the background we can always distinguish the houses of s’Alqueria Vella de Baix, where we will find information and personalized attention to make any queries we may have about the Natural Park. As we descend towards s’Alqueria Vella de Dalt, there are fewer signs of agricultural use. However, they are lands that also had a use based on the collection of sage palms, an activity that often complemented the dedication to strictly agricultural and livestock tasks. The handicraft of the palm, the llatra or llata (in Capdepera), is still alive among the population of the region. The path, down the mountain, takes us through two streams. Shortly after crossing the second, we pass an era: we are close to the lowlands and agricultural uses are becoming present again. From this point we dominate the plain of s’Alqueria Vella de Dalt. Among the nearby buildings, there is one that catches our eye: the pediment. This peculiar building is part of a set of three houses that complemented a temporary settlement of prisoners, who in the 1940s built the road to Puig de sa Tudossa. These huts were used by the soldiers guarding the convicted workers to take shelter and rest. Since many of the soldiers came from the Basque Country, they built the 5-meter-high pediment that we can see attached to one of the huts, to distract us during leisure time.

The farmland of s’Alqueria Vella de Dalt
Once down, and after passing the barrier, we will find a restored roter hut, Can Leu. From here, a path parallel to the torrent leads us to a ferris wheel. Once there, we must turn right and continue 300 meters between fields along a path that runs parallel to the torrent of Es Cocons. The fields of s’Alqueria Vella de Dalt are used for the cultivation of fodder, complemented by about 400 trees (especially almond trees, but also olive trees, fig trees and carob trees). From the cultivated land, but also from the sides of the road, we see abundant grasses, ruderal species (commonly called “weeds”) that benefit from human activity, especially livestock and agriculture. Looking carefully, we can also find some protected species, such as orchids. In these fields, the goldfinch (Carduelis carduelis) and the passerine (Carduelis cannabina) abound, which feed on the seeds of thistles and other common plants in the farmland, while among the insectivores we can highlight the hoopoe. (Upupa epops), and the capercaillie (Lanius senator), a small bird that breeds on our islands during the spring and migrates south when the summer is over, crossing the Sahara, in search of a warmer climate. warm, where to spend the winter. Soon we will reach the refinery and the manor’s house, which is also known as Ses Cotxeres. These constructions date from the beginning of the 20th century and belonged to the estate of s’Alqueria Vella de Dalt. Although the refinery, it had a shared use with the transformation into olive oil of the harvests from the two farmhouses and other nearby properties such as Can Monseriu and Can Crist. Once past the houses, in a boat we return to the starting point.

Pujada al puig Figuer

Difficulty: Low
Distance: 1 km
Duration: 30 min
Description: The ascent to Puig Figuer is a short walk through history that allows us to see one of the first human settlements in the area: the Talayotic site that crowns the hill. Halfway, we will pass by the Sa Barrereta pass, from where we can observe a second site and enjoy the views on both sides of the promontory.
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Stages

The lands of Can Ros
We start walking about 150 meters from the car park of s’Alqueria Vella in the direction of es Verger. We will find a barrier and, a few meters later, the start signal of the ascent route to Puig Figuer. In this place, the lands of Can Ros, the cultivation of the olive tree stands out, although in the lands closest to the houses, both in those of s’Alqueria Vella and in those of Can Ros, it could be done orchard thanks to the irrigation system caused both by the water pipes from Son Morei and by the waterwheel we left on our left, built very close to the torrent and which was restored a few years ago by the Heritage Department of the Consell de Mallorca. The ferris wheel is an element of Muslim heritage that was used to draw water from wells by the force of a beast.

El coll de sa Barrereta
From the Can Ros olive grove, we have to take the path that goes up the slope of Puig Figuer. The views we have are expanding as we go up. In the Coll de sa Barrereta we find a very suitable gate to take the first break during our walk, from here we already have a spectacular view of the other side of the promontory, the southern area. Dry walls, such as the one that ends in this pass, form an ideal habitat for many animals: dragons and garrigue snakes use them to sunbathe and to feed on invertebrates (insects, snails, spiders) that they take refuge in it. In addition, small mammals such as the cellar rat, the mouse and the weasel find a hiding place there, as well as the food provided by both the critters that inhabit the gaps between the stones and the hedge vegetation that is associated with the walls. If we turn right, past the pass, we continue ascending to the top of the hill and soon we come across the first constructions corresponding to the Puig Figuer site, which we will talk about later. As we climb the terrain is more and more rocky and the vegetation is less dense. We can see that a shrub species that was not so abundant in the lower area, the sparrow (Euphorbia dendroides), begins to stand out, which turns red in late spring and loses its leaves during the summer.

The Puig Figuer site
The Puig Figuer site (listed as an asset of cultural interest with number 05/002 in the BIC Catalog of the Consell de Mallorca) consists of a settlement built on top of a hill, between the lands of Son Morei and ‘Alqueria Vella. It is a circular talayot, located at the highest point, to which are attached secondary quadrangular and circular structures that form terraces in a south-easterly arrangement. It does not appear to be a continuously inhabited settlement, but rather a settlement with some other function dependent on a larger settlement, located in the lower part of the valley, where life was much simpler. The central tower or talayot ​​was approximately four meters high and stood out for being an excellent watchtower from where there was absolute dominance of the whole region. Of note is the possible existence of a helical ramp to access the upper floor, the base of which is still appreciable in the ruins. Access to the interior is made possible by a south-facing door, in the same direction as the Talayotic village of Coll d’en Petro. The whole set was protected by a wall built with blocks of cyclopean stones placed vertically, except on the north face, where the protection is natural because of the topography of the terrain. It seems to have been a settlement in use during the Talayotic (c. 850-550 BC) and post-Talayotic (550-123 BC) period, and may even have been used during the period of Roman rule (until the 1st century). The site we see has as its predominant element a circular central talayot, with a central inner column and two heights. These types of constructions were elements of prestige for the Talayotic communities, and their use was always communal, that is, they had a social function that could be linked to social and religious rituals. So these are not purely defensive elements, as has often been the case.

Territory control
The increase in population that reached Mallorca during the Talayotic period made the control of the territory key, as the different communities needed their own land for grazing, agriculture, hunting, firewood…, and competed for these resources. Thus, monumental constructions, such as walls and talayots, became widespread to make it clear that they belonged to the different communities, and also to demonstrate the level of power or prestige of each town. Close to this site, in the surrounding mountains, there are other remains from the same period and which are part of a complex network of building elements with different functions, all depending on the same community. On our way, near the Sa Barrereta pass, there are remains of a quadrangular structure, made of dry stone, dating from the Talayotic period. At the moment, it has not been excavated and, therefore, it cannot be interpreted to what exactly it corresponds. These walls are more visible in the distance, as we ascend the hill, as they are completely surrounded by vegetation such as reeds (Ampelodesmos mauritanica), bush (Pistacia lentiscus) and holm oak (Chamaerops humilis). On the nearest promontory, Puig Genet, there are also two stepped platforms and a rectangular building corresponding to the same period, so we must think that they were probably part of the same territory. The main village must have been in the lowlands, or it was an old settlement where today are the houses of s’Alqueria Vella, or it was the village of Coll d’en Petro, located near Son Morei, in the south of this hill.

Down to s’Alqueria Vella
Once we know the first settlement that has been documented in the Natural Park of the Levante Peninsula, we can resume the descent. In this area, looking up at the sky, it is common to observe the flight of the bald eagle or the sparrowhawk (Hieraaetus pennatus), as the Natural Park has a large breeding population of this beautiful bird of prey. We finish the route in s’Alqueria Vella, between olive and almond trees, in the same place where we left. If the walk has been short, we can take the opportunity to reach the Coll des Verger (just over a kilometer in the direction of the houses of Es Verger), from where we can enjoy a very different view of the that we had the opportunity to see from Puig Figuer, or we can go to the Campament des Soldats (less than two kilometers in the direction of Puig de sa Tudossa), where we can know other historical remains, this time from the contemporary era , and of great relevance in our most recent history. The soils at the bottom of the valley, as usual, are the most fertile due to the greater depth of the soil and the proximity of the water table. It is precisely this humanized space, transformed by agriculture and the presence of livestock, that has the greatest diversity of species, both animals and plants. Especially small birds, but also insects, reptiles and small mammals, are favored by the diversity of environments that come together in this valley: crops, hedges, streams, dry stone walls, olive groves and the presence of fruit trees, and even buildings. Also noteworthy is the large number of ruderal plants that bloom on the sides of the road during the spring; some are very showy, such as poppy (Papaver rhoeas and P. dubium), artichoke (Cynara cardunculus) and margalida or bolic (Chrysanthemum coronarium). The supply of nutrients thanks to the grazing of the sheep favors the presence of these plants.

Pujada al puig des Porrassar

Difficulty: High
Distance: 800 m (one way) from Soldiers Camp
Duration: 30 min
Requirements: It is highly recommended to use hiking boots for the route
Description: The ascent route to Puig des Porrassar is one of the short walks that can be done in the Natural Park, and after a short walk, it allows us to admire a wide and splendid panoramic views from one of the highest and most characteristic peaks of the Sierra de Llevant (with 493 m). The duration of the ascent, from the car park of s’Alqueria Vella to the top of the hill, is approximately one hour. On the other hand, the slope of the path is high, this together with an irregular and steep firm, of earth and stones, determines that it is necessary to have a good physical condition to be able to reach the top of the hill of Porrassar and to enjoy the views in the best conditions. The exit of the ascent path to Puig des Porrassar is signposted inside the Soldiers’ Camp (or Prisoners’ Camp), between the soldiers’ barracks and the officer’s hut. This point is located a kilometer and a half from the information center of the Natural Park and the car park (following the path of the Prisoners). From this place there are only about 800 meters that separate us from the top of the hill, but we must keep in mind that the path ascends quite straight and saves a significant difference in level, about 130 meters, which determines a steep slope and almost constant throughout the ascent, although in the last section it becomes even more accentuated.

 

Stages

The Soldiers’ Camp
This is a unique place in Mallorca, for its characteristics and history. Despite its pleasant appearance and the good views it offers, it has been a fateful place, where a large number of prisoners of war were forced to remain in subhuman conditions, devoting their days to forced labor to build the road. (today Camino dels Presos) which goes up the mountain towards the Talaia Moreia (watchtower).

The ascent effort
A little more than 100 meters from the start of the walk, we pass a gate with a wooden barrier that gives way to the Es Verger estate, the dividing wall we leave behind separates this estate from s’Alqueria Vella. Together with Albarca, they are the three public properties, acquired by the Government of the Balearic Islands in 1999 (Albarca and es Verger) and 2000 (s’Alqueria Vella) that make up the Natural Park of the Llevant Peninsula. We see how a path continues parallel to the wall, which goes towards the coast, specifically towards s’Arenalet des Verger. This path is part of the great route (GR) 222, the Artà – Lluc hiking route, which will in the future link the Sierra de Llevant with the Sierra de Tramuntana (with a total route of 130 kilometers). But to go up to Puig des Porrassar we will not follow this path parallel to the wall, but our path continues in the same direction in which we came from the Soldiers’ Camp; the summit of Es Porrassar, very pyramidal, rises majestically right before our eyes. This area has been repopulated with pines, as in the past these lands suffered numerous forest fires that were eliminating the forest mass that originally covered the mountains. The reasons for the fires, often recurrent, are various: controlled burning (to gain crops or to regrow pastures for herds) has sometimes given way to some uncontrolled fires, which must be added to the fatal combination of high temperatures and summer drought with some negligent actions (such as the abandonment of dirt in the field) or the incidence of other causes of natural origin, such as lightning during storms. The repopulated areas are gradually increasing in area, and act as seed dispersal nuclei, which naturally contribute to the revegetation of the mountains. Soon the slope of the path increases and the walk becomes harder, but in a few minutes we gain height and the field of view becomes wider. The pleasure of the eyes compensates for the effort of the legs, and in a very short time we appreciate how the panorama we have at our disposal is adding more and more territory. To the south-east, beyond the Puig des Corb, we can see the village of Artà and in the distance we can see the coast. The peaks have always played the role of first-rate observatories and in the past have always been watchtowers over the sea, where foreign incursions came from. Proof of this is that many of the peaks that surround the villages of Artà and Capdepera have Talayotic sites (Puig Figuer, Talaieta de Son Fortesa, Puig Badei), with defense towers (Talaia Moreia, Torre de Son Jaumell), or with farmhouses and fortified houses (Els Olors, Son Morei, Morell …) To the south-west we see the continuation of the Artana mountain range, where the Bec de Ferrutx stands out; to the west we have the Cold Watchtower. In the foreground, the lands of Ca na Paies, close to the Camp, were agricultural lands where cereals alternated with fruit trees and carob trees. These are poor lands, but the scarcity of farmland and the poor conditions of the population of the region in the s. XIX, forced to break them and to create establishments (agricultural settlements) also in this place. Following the ridge to the north, the Puig de sa Tudossa stands out, crowned by some telecommunications installations (antennas) that give it a unique profile. The thick reed mantle (Ampelodesmos mauritanica) that we have in the foreground hides many plant species of great floristic interest (Astragalus balearicus, Smilax aspera balearica, Teucrium subspinosi, Potentilla caulescens, Pimpinella balearica).

Between batons and sieves
The vegetation that reigns in the environment, which accompanies us throughout the ascent, is homogeneous and among the reeds, the large grass that dominates almost the entire landscape of the natural park, there are the garballons (Chamaerops humilis), the the only native European palm species, and a large number of bats (Asphodelus aestivus). The latter are the ones that give name to the hill we climb. Between February and June, the porrasses, or albons, bloom and add color to the path, then the flowers dry out and only the caramutxes, dry, woody-looking stems that denote the harshness of the Mediterranean summer, are visible. Their resistance and adaptation to dry and stony places make them very common throughout the Balearic Islands. In the scientific name of this plant we can find the explanation of why it is so abundant in these lands and in others also punished by fires. Etymologically, asphodelus is associated with the words sphodos (ash) and elos (valley or earth), in direct reference to the fact that its roots (rhizomes) are not affected by fire and allow the plant to regrow easily from among the ashes, (i.e., after a fire). Traditionally albons have had several uses (in the artisanal manufacture of glue, for example). At the popular level, the classical Greek tradition related the fields of clubs to the presence of the souls of the dead, but the Mallorcan tradition, much more earthly, has given this herb a much more practical reference, as revealed by the popular saying: ‘albons, year of almonds. ” Another very positive reference, which shows us how ingrained the knowledge of this species is in the island society, is a popular song that reads: “There was a porrassa / that congregated an albón / as high as the Puig Major / and it wasn’t too thick, / and it had a ridge / like the castle of Alaró. ” The sieves also withstand the passage of fire, or rather have the ability to regrow after a fire. But they are not as common as albons throughout Mallorca, but are concentrated in certain areas of the Tramuntana and Llevant mountain ranges. Especially in Artà they are well known, because on this plant is based the whole Artanese lath tradition (making a latra, or work of palm, is the art of making various utensils, such as signs, mats, hats, barns … with leaves , or palms, dried sieves). A popular Artana song says: “The poor garballonera, / all year round you make her surroundings; / in summer her palms are harvested, / and in winter she is garballons”.

Panoramas here and there
The top of the hill with its almost 500 meters high (493) allows us to enjoy a 360 degree panorama of almost the entire peninsula of Llevant. Looking south, we can see the highest part of the Puig des Corb (436 m), which consists of two different promontories. The eastern slope of this mountain is home to extensive reforestation thanks to private initiative (funded by the tour operator TUI). At the foot of the hill is the Soldiers’ Camp, which is where we started the climb. Above the promontory, in the distance, stands Mount Ferrutx, or peak of Ferrutx, and continuing the most distant reliefs, from the east, we will see the hill of Alpara, already on the edge of the town of Artà. In the southeast there is a population, obviously it is Artà, a municipality to which these lands belong. Further on, you can see the coast, in the background the small peninsula that forms the Punta de n’Amer and the urbanized coast of Sa Coma and Cala Millor. As we turn our eyes to the east, the reliefs of the Sierra de Son Jordi and the coast of Cap Vermell appear from afar, between which stretches the wide valley of Canyamel. Closer to home are many of the reliefs that make up the Artà Mountains, declared SCIs (Sites of Community Interest) and SPAs
(Special Protection Area for Birds) by the European Union. And to the east, where the island ends, there is the white profile of Cala Rajada, followed by the Puig de s’Àguila, the watchtower of Son Jaumell (with a watchtower known as es Telegraf) and a point of land which goes into the Mediterranean, it is the Cap des Freu Nature Reserve. Continuing to the northeast is Cala Mesquida, and from here a rugged coast that alternates cliffs with white sand beaches (Cala Torta, Cala Mitjana, Cala des Matzoc). We see, looking out over the sea, the tower of Matzoc (or Albarca), and inland the lands of Sa Duaia, in the background, and the green expanses of Sa Cova and Albarca, where the pine and coastal marinas give way to abundant olive groves. Following the coast, we see a small islet, it is the cliff of Albarca, and to the west the stony coast makes an entrance in a cove of sand and shallow waters, it is the cove of Fontsalada. The interior reliefs of s’esquena d’en Pintat and s’esquena Llarga do not allow us to observe s’Arenalet des Verger, nor the rest of the coast, mostly steep and steep, which reaches Cap Ferrutx, the second nature reserve of the contrada. Far to the north, a defense tower of the s. XVI crowns the Puig de la Talaia Moreia, and to the northwest, closer, is the Puig de sa Tudossa, with a set of telecommunications antennas, much more modern and less picturesque than the aforementioned watchtower. Following the reliefs to the west, we see the ridge of the Sierra Artana, which culminates with the Talaia Freda, with a height of 563 meters, which make it the highest peak in the mountains of the Mallorcan East. Further on, between the Talaia Freda and the Puig de sa Tudossa, we can observe (if the weather conditions allow) the highest peaks of the Formentor peninsula and in front of these the watchtower of La Victoria, which separates the bays of Alcúdia and Pollença. These reliefs are the northern beginning of the Sierra de Tramuntana, which extends in a north-east to south-west direction along 90 kilometers, in a parallel arrangement to the Sierra de Llevant. The Sierra de Tramuntana reaches the terms of Andratx and Calvià, just to the west of the island, in other words, at the other end of Mallorca. Between our position and the Talaia Freda, also called Puig Morei, we see the Camino dels Presos, and to the south-west, in the background, the valley of s’Alqueria Vella opens up. Following the mountains, after the impressive Puig Morei, is the Puig de sa Creu, and between one and the other, the Pas de ses Osques. On the other side of the mountains are the coastal towns of Bethlehem and the Colony of St. Peter, but from where we are they are not visible.

Puig de sa Talaia Freda

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Nature, flora and fauna

Heritage and History

Nature, flora and fauna

The current appearance of these lands is the result of interactions between humans and nature over the centuries.
The Park is home to extensive olive, almond, fig and carob crops. Tourism development was the cause of the gradual abandonment of rural activities in less profitable areas.
In order to achieve the regeneration of pastures for flocks of sheep and goats, the scrub was burned repeatedly, and this has favored the presence of regrowth species, such as reeds (Ampelodesmos mauritanica) and sagebrush (Chamaerops humilis). Thus, today, the cart covers large areas of the Park in areas formerly occupied by forests or other shrub communities.

The great diversity of environments with coastal cliffs, caves and chasms, fountains and torrents, forests and garrigues, make this Natural Park an area of ​​great landscape value.
The area contains a large number of species endemic to the Balearic Islands. In terms of flora, we should highlight the steppe joana (Hypericum balearicum) and the nun’s pad (Teucrium marum subsp. Occidentale). Endemic animals include the snake snail (Iberellus balearicus), the cave pseudoscorpion (Chthonius balearicus) and the long-tailed snipe (Sylvia balearica).

The Park has populations of Mediterranean turtles (Testudo hermanni), hedgehogs (Erinaceus algirus), genets (Geneta geneta), martens (Martes martes) and calapets (Bufo balearicus).
Among the birds, we should point out that the sparrowhawks (Hieraaetus pennatus), peregrine falcons (Falco peregrinus), Corsican gulls (Larus audouinii), cormorants (Phalacrocorax aristotelis) and vultures (Neophron percnopterus) nest there. It is not uncommon to see the majestic milvus (Milvus milvus) in the Park, thanks to the reintroduction project that is being carried out so that this bird can live there again, as it has done in the past.

Heritage and history

The Natural Park and the reserves were declared by means of Decree 127/2001, of 9 November (BOIB no. 140, of 22-11-2001) and its delimitation was modified by means of Law 10/2003, of 22 December, of tax and administrative measures. These natural areas are part of the European Natura 2000 Network, both as a Special Protection Area for Birds (SPAs) and as a Site of Community Interest (SCI).

The earliest evidence of human presence, we find them reflected in archaeological remains.
There are also examples of military architecture, such as the Talaia Moreia (watchtower) and the remains of a camp of Republican prisoners of the Civil War. We should also highlight the houses of possession, such as the houses of Albarca, the terraces and other elements of agricultural life (oil mills, waterwheels, cisterns…).

The abundance of sieve made it possible for the development of palm crafts at the end of the 19th century. Today there are still some artisans who carry out this activity.

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Information centers

Visitor Center

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Information centers, Offices, others

Natural Park Information Center and Office: S’Alqueria Vella de Baix. Ma-3333 road detour at kilometer 4.7. Post office box no. 76; 07570 Artà.
Hours: Monday through Sunday from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Phone: 606 096 830.

Refuge of s’Alzina, els Oguers and s’Arenalet.
To consult the information visit the IBANAT website at the following link: www.caib.es

Reservations are made online exclusively through the IBANAT website at the following link: www.caib.es
For inquiries and clarifications you can call 971 17 76 52 (Monday to Friday from 10 am to 2 pm).

Camping area next to S’Arenalet beach. Information and reservations on 971 17 76 52. Booking hours Monday to Friday from 10 am to 2 pm.

Parking at s’Alqueria Vella de Baix.

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